This summer, on August the 15th, 1998, a friend of mine, Ken, and I rode our mountain bikes around the perimeter of Grand Island, located in Lake Superior just off Munising, Michigan. The day was nearly ideal for our purposes, being warm and with a nice breeze to keep it comfortable. It was bright and varied between overcast and sunny. Because of the wind from the northwest the Pictured Rocks boat tours were not operating, but this was of no concern to us as a short ferry ride on protected waters from the mainland took us to Grand Island.
The ferry makes four daily round trips to and from the island during the summer months. Having a drive of nearly three hours to get there, we opted to take the noon ferry rather than the first boat at 9:30. At the ferry dock the operator gave us a map and suggested the best bike route to take. A short loop would bring us back in time to catch the 3:30 ferry or the fuller perimeter of about 24 miles would bring us back in time to catch last boat at 6:30. Miss this one, however, he warned, and we'd be on the island until the 9:30 boat tomorrow morning. He warned us not to take the route from the north end down the center of the island as there was a great deal of sand to negotiate--killer stuff on a bicycle. The 6:30 boat is cancelled after Labor Day, so plan accordingly if you are planning a visit during the fall color season.
Map: Munising area.
After unloading the bikes from the car and a quick equipment check, we were ready to board the ferry.
The round trip on the ferry cost $13 each, three of which was for transporting the bike. Bikes are also available for rent at the dock for $5 for half a day or $10 for the whole day, but, naturally, we weren't interested.
Frank checking his stuff.
We loaded out bikes aboard the ferry, The Island Hopper, for the short ride from Powell Point on the mainland to Williams Landing on the island.
With us were some backpackers, sightseers, a family with young children who intending to ride the lower trails and a couple of people who maintain private homes on the island.
"Don't scratch my bike,"
I'm thinking.
Our plan was to circle the island in a clockwise direction. The initial portion of the trail is ideal for casual riders. Smooth, wide and level. Here Ken rides back toward me as I snap a couple of shots with his camera.
Here's another shot, closer. Hey, it's his camera and he's better lookin' than I am. Because he is coming back, the lake is on the left his right, just on the other side of the pines. At this point we are less than a quarter of the way up the west side of the island and only a dozen feet or so above lake level.
Here I am bring up the rear, but at least I'm going the right way. The lake is visible through the trees. It was a gorgeous day. Everything was perfect for bicycling. This portion of the trail is easily ridden by casual bicyclists.
A little further up the trail was a perfect spot for a little break and a photo opportunity. Smile, Frank. Note the island at the left edge of the frame.
We've climbed to nearly 300 feet above lake level and the view is spectacular and well worth the effort if you are in reasonable condition. The trail is two-track. We are past the turn off for the shorter loop. That's the mainland in the background.
Further along and after and exciting downhill and another long climb we came to this spot. I call this, "Wow." It can't get any better than this.
The waves were bouncing around down there creating music in the crystal clear water. We could have spent all day in this one spot, but new adventures lay just around the corner.
Still on the west side of the island is another perfect spot for a break. Behind Ken the Birch is clinging to the edge of a 300 foot cliff. Somewhere in this area the trail turns into a single track. Lots of fun for an experienced rider, but probably not for a novice.
This is the same spot, but the birch is taking the picture. It doesn't get any better than this.
I'm standing on North Beach in the middle of a magazine cover.
This beach, on this day, was absolutely enchanting and we had
it all to ourselves.
We're on the north end of the island and half way around.
We've seen four bicycles going in the opposite direction and
a small group of backpackers so far.
Shortly after leaving the beach we will pass three hikers who
will be the last people we'll see until we pass Duck Lake and
reach Murray Bay the southwest
corner of the island.
We've run out of film, but not out of adventure.
After leaving the beach the trail climbs, descends, turns and climbs and descends some more. In spots it is quite narrow and requires some concentration. It needn't be extremely difficult if one were willing to exercise a little restraint, but, although we aren't exactly crazy, we did test our skills in spots. We can always blame it on not wanting to miss that last boat.
Near the south end of the island there are more signs of civilization. You'll probably find few sailboats anchored serenely in the bay and you must take a break and spend some time at the cemetery. Here is a chance to reflect on the people who lived and loved and raised families and died on the island as far back as a century and a half ago. What was it like here then? No doubt life was difficult, but the setting must have been even more magnificent. Were they able to enjoy it or were they too involved in providing for their daily needs to stop and appreciate the wildflowers? I hope they had time for the beauty.
We made it to the ferry dock with a bit over a half an hour to spare in spite of the fact that we took several short rest and scenery breaks throughout the day. If one were to just ride the loop, a rider in good condition could have done it in less time, but I can't imagine not stopping to enjoy the beauty that nature has created. To more fully appreciate the island, one would do well to pack a lunch and take the first boat and spend all day biking the look at a leisurely pace and save some time to enjoy North Beach.
It was a great day shared with a great friend; it's what life is all about.
Well before we had reached the half-way point we were talking about coming back. And we will. Maybe we'll see you there, how about it?